While I was away, I tatted Mark Myers' bunny. This is located in the online class projects hosted by Georgia Seitz.

Anyway, I'm tatting it for an exchange - for someone who loves the floppy-eared bunnies. I've pulled the ear down in this card but I'm wondering about making another and lengthening the ear so that it really is obvious it's a floppy rather than just a suggestion of one. I had taken some very pretty vintage lavender thread with me that kept breaking as I tried to wind it on a second shuttle. So I took it off the shuttle and pitched it. LOL! I have no idea how old it was, but clearly, it wasn't going to work out. Fortunately, I also brought some Flora size 50 in the purple. I think she really prefers lavender though so it's probably as good of an excuse to make another as any. I used the layered picots for the fluffy tail but I think I would like to change that a bit too...longer picots maybe. Perhaps a smaller ring.

Here's the short form and the original pattern for the January mystery motif. Mark Myers created a visual and he did it a little differently from me, as far as where he started off. He's really busy right now and I have been too, so I haven't had a chance to ask him about posting his diagram. Maybe later.


Thread of choice
2 shuttles, CTM
- or p picot
SR split ring
R ring
Ch chain
ds double stitch
+ or j join
rw reverse work
prev previous
clr close ring

1. R 12 ds, 1" long picot(this is important), 12 ds, clr, rw
2. *Ch 5 ds – 5 ds, rw
3. R 12 ds, + lp, 12 ds, clr, rw
4. Repeat from * until you have 8 rings and j last 5-5 ch to base of 1st ring (if you do not do split rings, you will need to cut and tie and hide ends here )

5. Climb out of first round with SR (split ring) 12/12, clr (or if you don’t do split rings, with new thread, R 12 ds, + to base of any ring, 12 ds, clr
The next ring will join to the base of the next ring on the previous round, so you will need to switch shuttles accordingly if you used a SR to climb out. If you did not use a SR, do not do anything.
6. **R 12 ds, + to base of next ring on prev round, 12 ds, clr, rw
7. Ch 5 ds – 5 ds – 10 ds, j to same place as last ring
8. Ch 10 ds, + to last p on prev ch, 5 ds – 5 ds, rw
9. R 12 ds, + to same place as last ch and last R (there are now 3 joins in the same place), 12 ds, clr, rw
10. Repeat from ** around, joining last ring into same place as first ring and ending with ch 5 ds – 5 ds – 10 ds, j to same place as 1st & last ring, 10 ds, j to last p of last ch, ch 5 ds – 5 ds, + to base of first R, cut and tie and hide ends.

April 1921 Needlecraft, page 10

No. 4

No. 8 sewing-cotton was used for the model, but No. 30 crochet-thread may be substituted if preferred.
1. Commencing at center of medallion, make a ring of 12 double knots, picot (this picot should have at least an inch of thread, since it forms the ring at center, and the remaining 7 rings are attached to it). 12 double knots, close; with two threads make a chain of 5 double knots, picot (of usual size), 5 double knots, a ring like 1st, joining to the long picot; repeat until you have 8 rings and the same number of chains, joining last chain at base of 1st ring.
2. A chain of 10 double knots, *(picot, 5 double knots) twice; a ring of 12 double knots, join at base of ring of last row, where the chain started, 12 double knots, close; another ring, like 1st, joining at base of next ring of last row; a chain of (5 double knots, picot) twice; 10 double knots, join in same place; a chain of 10 double knots, join to last picot made, and repeat from *, joining last chain by last picot to 1st picot of 1st chain started.
This completes one medallion.

Feel free to contact me with questions.